Bangkok rewards the traveler who crosses the river, not the one who queues for the rooftop.
Bangkok is where Thailand opens. A river that still works for a living, a street-food culture no listicle has managed to flatten, and more distinct neighbourhoods than most countries have cities. The first 36 hours can feel like a lot. That is normal, and it passes.
Planned properly, the city is several trips in one: the old royal island of Rattanakosin, the riverside shophouses of Bang Rak and Talat Noi, Thonburi across the water where the khlong boats still run, and Chinatown after dark. This file covers the neighbourhoods, the food worth a queue, the scams worth knowing, and the people we trust on the ground.